Last Thursday morning, Celeste and I drove in the darkness of the early morning down to the Raleigh-Durham airport, where we boarded a plane bound for the Caribbean. Several hours later we landed in the city of Puerto Plata, which is on the northern coast of the Dominican Republic. We were greeted by a comfortable heat wave and a lively 4-piece mariachi band, singing their hearts out, enthusiastically welcoming us to their country, and, of course, asking for tips. Any doubts we may have had about a sweet Spring Break pretty much evaporated right then and there.
We drove about a half hour along the coast until we arrived at our all-inclusive resort that, while it couldn't hold a candle to the resort we stayed in during our honeymoon in Cancun, was very comfortable. Sure, it didn't have a mini-golf course or free bikini waxes, but it's hard to complain when pina coladas are abundant and free and unlimited bacon doesn't cost you a dime. These are the beauties of an all-inclusive vacation.
The first full day there we decided to hit the town and get a taste for the Dominican culture, even though we were encouraged by our resort staff not to leave unless it was on an "official tour." Hogwash. We knew the language, and wanted some adventure. So we walked a half mile to the entrance of the hotel, and found a bunch of locals sitting on their motorcycles. Before we knew it we had been "Amigo!"-ed by about five guys at once, all desperate for our 100-peso-business, and were on the back of one of their tiny motos - all three of us. At first we were a little nervous (I'm not a heavyweight yet, but I'm getting there), but we made it to the city safely, and on the way, we discovered that pretty much everybody gets around that way in the DR.
We quickly discovered that as lush and paradisaical the country's landscape is, the truth is that the DR is a nation crippled by poverty. On our commute into the heart of the city, we saw thatch-roofed huts that passed for homes, and houses sided with nothing but rusted tin. Tiny shacks passed as homes and businesses, usually simple fruit stands selling coconuts or pineapples to support a family. The city itself was nice, but there were plenty of beggars and stray dogs to pull on our sympathy strings.
The next day we decided to take another adventure - this time on our own set of wheels. We signed up for an ATV tour of the countryside. The machines were a little smokey, but plenty of fun. We rode through bamboo forests, small villages, shaded jungle, until we finally reached our final destination of a beautiful sprawling coastline. It was pretty sweet. I kept on imagining that Bagera or Sher Khan were going to jump out at me, but our tour guide assured us that the only dangerous creatures indigenous to the DR were the women. (Zing!)
After some R&R (and by R&R I mean drinking smoothies, swimming in the ocean, and scaring people with my outrageously pale skin), we decided to embark on one last adventure before leaving the DR. Our final excursion led us back into the mountains and remote countryside south of Puerto Plata, where we discovered the unrivaled natural wonder of "27 Charos de Damajagua" - otherwise known as 27 Waterfalls. This place was incredible. I've never seen anything like it.We met up at base camp with a fellow named Augusto - best guide ever, by the way - and started making our way up a mountain. After hiking for about five or ten minutes, we came to a crystal clear pool of water sitting below a beautiful waterfall. Following Augusto's lead, we jumped into the water (a little cold at first - I think I squeaked like a girl after jumping in) and swam toward the waterfall. Once we got there, we began climbing to the top of it clinging to rocks and, occasionaly, Augusto's outstretched arm. From there we swam through a calm stream of this green water until we got to another waterfall. Again, we climbed, and again found ourselves in another pool of beautiful green water.


This process continued for about an hour or so. Sometimes we would be climbing the face of a rock, sometimes we'd be swimming, sometimes we'd be hiking, or pulling ourselves up a rock on a rope or makeshift ladder. But all methods led us to the same place, which was the natural spring waterfall from whence all this natural beauty spewed. Using a rope, we climbed to the top of the waterfall and did our first cliff jump of the day.
From there, we started making our way down. But we were no longer forced to climb ropes or rocks. No, as much fun as the way up was, coming down was even better. It was one big cliff jump after another into beautiful clear pools of water. In some cases, jumps were replaced by descending down natural waterslides. Either way, we just kept splashing our way down the mountain, whooping, screaming, and laughing, until we finally made it back down to the original pool and waterfall at the base of the mountain. It was amazing.

Okay, this video is a little weird, but it gives you taste of the 27 Charcos. Just embrace it.
So...where to next?




